Week Three: The Six-Pint Leprechaun

County Kilkenny- the name just rolls off the tongue with velvety goodness. Travelling through Ireland is like stepping into a fairytale book with lyrical place-names that possess a strangely addictive poetry which makes you want to say the name over and over again. The Macgillycuddy Reeks, The Slieve Mish Mountains, Tullaroan, Ballyragget, Scarraglen and The Blaskets. With names like this, it is hard not to be inspired when you come from the land of 'Balga' and 'Innaloo'.

County Kilkenny is a warren of moss covered stone walls and wild green pastures. Out here, you can see where they found the 'thousand shades of green'. I am posting a picture of one of the national highways... can you believe the speed limit is 100! I have had a few terrifying encounters with out-of-control tractors tearing around sharp corners at neck-breaking speed. It's enough to drive a girl to drink.

Speaking of which, I am pretty sure that whoever is responsible for putting up road signs in Ireland has been sneaking in a few extra nips of the hard stuff. Either that, or it is a national joke to point street signs in the wrong direction. I'm not sure yet.

One theory concerning the errant road signs was first brought to my attention in the back-bar of Cassidy's Hotel in Dublin. An Irishman walked into the bar (cliche, I know) and told us the tale of 'The Six-Pint Leprechaun'. Apparently this cocky little bastard is responsible for the many unexplainable peculiarities that occur in Ireland. Turns out that National Roads are among his portfolio. I would instantly dismiss the notion as ridiculous, were it not for the fact that the details have been verified from several different sources from several different counties. Why six pints? According to the tale, you must consume six pints in order to see the little bugger which will ultimatley lead to his capture.

This is a photo of the main street of Kilkenny, which is Ireland's oldest medieval city. There are tunnelled pathways which lead between the streets with names like Pudding Lane and Butter Slip.

We drove from our B&B in Freshford, taking a different direction every day. Here are some of the highlights:

Visiting the ivy covered ruins of TIntern Abbey on the Hook Peninsula, the remains of the11th century priory in Kells and the impressive Rock of Cashel. Escaping the modern world at the Irish National Heritage Park where Norman and Viking invasions, Christianity and Celtic life is reenacted. Spending a sunny afternoon at the National Stud and Japanese Gardens oohing and ahhing over the cute little foals. Heading out on the scenic route through the mountains to meet the monks at Mount Malloray. And finally, driving the long way to Tipperary.

Week Two: Hitting the Emerald Isle

I write from Dublin... After a very short flight, we touched down amid green pastures and caramel coloured cows (actually it was painted on the side of a hanger, but I think it looked nice). Ireland is in the midst of a drought so the green pastures are leaning more towards the poo brown variety, but even then, a sprinking of emerald is certainly seen just about anywhere.

Dublin is a gorgeous town, with more of a country-bumpkin feel to it than the stale and depressing place I had heard so much about. Much smaller than Perth, the streets are wide and airy, and coloured flowers line the footpaths. The people smile and tip their hats in greeting and music can be heard from every corner. Temple Bar (or Temple Barf as it is know to the locals) is the pub/club area of Dublin, and is a myriad of winding cobblestone lanes and secret drinking holes.

Interestingly, everyone thinks we are from America. We went into one pub and a gentleman exclaimed' Oooh, you is from T'Americas!". We told him we were from Australia and went on our way. When it came to paying for the drinks, the bar tender couldn't understand a word we were saying. We were told 'It's yer American accent, yer see!" Generally speaking, if you don't sound Irish when you are talking, then you are from T'Americas.

We had a fantastic time looking through Trinity College and seeing the famous Book of Kells- the most impressive old book in the world up until yesterday when they uncovered a more impressive one at a construction site. Bummer, hey. You travel the world to see the best book on the planet, only to be outdone by one day.

Other than that, I have managed to fit in the odd spot of shopping. Mostly to get some new winter clothes after throwing most of them out in London whilst delerious from heat stroke. The weather is about ten degrees cooler and even a bit cold at night. A most welcome change.

We also did an embarassing viking tour of Dublin on one of those Amphibious WW2 buses. Admittedly, wearing plastic viking helmets whilst roaring through Temple Bar yelling obscenities at the masses had it's moments. I think I even learned a thing or two about Dublin's history. But it was hard to listen when you are being poked in the eyeball by plastic horns every time the bus turns a corner.

One highlight was catching the train up to Carrickfergus in Northern Ireland for the Lughnasa Fair (scroll down heaps for photos). It's a medieval fair held in a castle perched atop a rocky outcrop on the sea. We saw a fair bit of sword fighting and basket weaving but nothing too exciting due tho the bad weather. The castle itself was stunning. The men in chainmail were a bit on the hairy/smelly side.

Here are some more photos of London and a few of Dublin, but if you scroll further down the page there are a couple more. Next stop- Kilkenny.

xoxo

I am thinking of asking for a job here.




Exploring Dublin




Sharing a pint with Amanda and Ben and the pouring rain!



High tea at The Ritz in London